And the theatre...
There is a law in Stratford that no building can be built larger than the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. How cool is that? The theatre is about to be restored, at a cost of about 100 million pounds. Wow. It is wonderful to be in a place where theatre is appreciated and attended. It won't be open for a couple of years, by which time, I'll hopefully be employed there... The Swan Theatre was magnificent - I'm not sure what improvements they are planning... and the surrogate RSC home during the renovations, the Courtyard Theatre, was a fabulous thrust stage.
In the era of the Bard, audience members enjoying one of Shakespeare's plays would make a penny payment into a box that was carried around. After the performance ended, the players could be found counting their pennies in a room which became known as the box office. And so with pennies in hand (pounds, rather) I joined the queue at the Courtyard Theatre to wait for any returned tickets to see King Lear, with Sir Ian McKellen in the title role, no less. After an hour or so- success! For only 10 quid I scored a seat in hot demand (the queue grew significantly). I celebrated over a drink with another successful queuer, a young aspiring actor from Birmingham named Pete, down the road at The Black Swan. This is a cosy bar adorned with hundreds of photos of actors who have past through it's doors, and a large pretendy-bronze bust of the Bard as a centrepiece. It has been nicknamed by the townsfolk as the Dirty Duck. I didn't ask why.
And so I was fortunate to have a seat for the great play, though high up in the gallery, quite central, to watch Gandalf play quite superbly, one of the greatest roles written by Shakespeare, or anyone really. I think the play is conceptually and lyrically brilliant, however, I hesitantly admit: ...I'm just not that into it. This is a sad realisation, that I can't honestly say "I love Shakespeare's King Lear". The performers were extremely good, Sir Ian as King Lear, Sylvester McCoy (Dr Who!) as his fool, Monica Dolan as Regan, his 2nd daughter, and William Gaunt as the Earl of Gloucester, were especially fabulous, but I have to concede to my hopeless romanticism in craving a love story. The lack of this was not aided by the performance of Romala Garai as Cordelia (of Havana Nights Fame. Yes, really), who, while absolutely gorgeous, was very weak. A weak, giggly, pathetic ditzy girl. I am open to interpretation in Shakespeare, but it just didn't work for me. Or perhaps it was simply that she used dancing "twinkle fingers" as she acted. Nevertheless, it was an outstanding show.

I was more engaged by Chekhovs, The Seagull, directed by Trevor Nunn also, which is in rep(eratory) with King Lear, and was fantastic; the first time I have seen this play produced. The stunning set from the night before was transformed with giant trunks of birch trees (I thought palm trees but was corrected) and (again) awesome lighting, turning the decrepit palace of Lear into a lakeside manor with makeshift stage on the banks for Nina to tread the boards.. (It was so good it made me think of a Bruce McKinven/Matt Scott combo).
The Cordelia from last night, did not irritate me as much in the 'weaker' role of Nina. But her voice at a constant sob in the throat gratingly reminded me of my own vocal weakness.
Back to thoughts on King Lear; why are Regan and Goneril - the 'evil' sisters- almost always cast with dark-haired actresses in the roles, while pure and good Cordelia is usually blonde!?! Thank god for Deb Mailman in Barry Kosky's production several years ago. Humbug.
A highlight of both shows was the actress who played Regan in Lear and Masha in the Seagull: Monica Dolan. She enacted a drunk in both shows but very differently and totally brilliantly. She was utterly engaging. And she was the only actor who received a spontaneous applause upon an exit. Not even Sir Ian McKellen achieved this. Of course, he received a massive applause at curtain call. And he deserved every clap. He is quite exeptional. Lawrence said I should have yelled at him: YOU SHALL NOT PASS! But really, he can go wherever he wants I think. Just like the motto on Shakespeare's coat of Arms acquired late in life: Non Sanz Droict. - Not without Right. Ain't that the truth. Anyway, King Lear was more than worth the 10 quid, as was the Seagull a bargain at 15 pounds.
But the greatest bargain of all was seeing the RSC's A Midsummer Night's Dream at the Swan Theatre for 5 pounds. Though I bought a standing ticket, I nabbed a seat high and central. The performers were from India and Sri Lanka, and spoke the Shakespearian dialogue in 6 different languages plus English, on a spectacular set: in red dirt, a large trallice-like structure of wooden bars and beams covered by paper was broken and dived and jumped and rolled through by performers, with wild lighting, live drumming, rope climbing, dancing, singing, and all in sexy colourful costumes... this was possibly the best production of a Shakespeare play I have have ever seen, if not the best play ever. Never before have I seen such a standing ovation at curtain call. When I saw the all-male Russian Twelth Night at the Sydney festival, the audience all gradually rose to standing and gave the performers 9 curtain calls. However, at the end of this incredibly vital show, the audience unanimously leapt to their feet in applause. No hesitation, no self-consciousness, just utter JOY. One lady, staying at the YHA with me, had no previous knowledge of the play, yet managed to understand the narrative enough from the occasional line in English, and seemed to enjoy the show almost as much as I did.
Now a possy of five friends from the queues and the hostel, we partied on after this enchantment for a few hours. One of this fascinating troupe was a very kind, rather liberal-minded Anglican priest from Utah. As well as being intriguing company while waiting for tickets and genrously giving me a lift to the hostel when my bus failed to turn up, he was also kind enough to bestow a blessing upon me. After I admitted that I had succombed to purchase a spell called an "actor's blessing" from the Stratford witch shop -i'll try anything to help- he said: I'll give you a real one, laid his palm on my forehead, said some positive words, and I believe, passed on some super-duper good energy for my career. Hallelujah.
Stratford Upon Avon was a quasi-religious experience all round. But just like many other religions, faith, worship and idolatry is not cheap! My adventure was a little (big) extravagance on my UK adventure, but absolutely worth it. At least I was restrained in one aspect.. Apparently Stratford is also famous as being a good fashion shopping district. But as Arkadina in The Seagull says: I HAVE NO MONEY! I'M AN ACTRESS, NOT A BANKER!!